140 Thu.Mar 4]
to Buares all night & after some slight difficulty in finding the exit we reached a ghorri which bore us away to Clarke's Hotel. There we demanded Chota Hazin, a ghorri & a guide. The former turned up almost at once at our rooms (Croton & I were together) the guide arrived next and the ghorri rolled round at 7.0.
We started off by driving to the River. Our guide was a staunch Mohammedan (whom I prefer any day to the Hindus)& had no love for the Hindus. We drove some fair distance to the River Bank and there got on to a very small edition of an Oxford Barge. The same is difficult to describe. It is in fact easier to do it by photographs. There were many bathers, among them many women. The City Front is very fine indeed & stretches for the best part of a mile along the River. We were rowved up & then stopped and went ashore to see Aurangzeb's Mosque. We went right up to the top of the minaret & had a fine view of the city. This Mosque is a magnificent building and absolutely dominates the city. I can imagine there was some dust up when Aurangzeb buit it.
Then we embarked again and on our way past the Bremingghat were lucky enough to see a dead man brought down, bathed in the river & laid on his pyre. We waited until they had lit him up & then pushed on. P We next disembarked at the Nepalese temple which is remarkable